The external skin barrier, the outermost layer of the skin, is comprised of flattened cells separated by thin layers of lipids. The integrity of this barrier is critical to the health of the underlying skin.
A simple analogy is that of slates on a roof kept together and apart by a thin layer of glue, or in this case, lipid.The slates are made of protein corneocytes (dead skin cells) filled with keratin(moisturising agents). The glue between the slates is made of multiple layers and is predominantly made of three lipids: cholesterol, ceramides and free fatty acids. When these three key lipids exist in equal amounts the barrier is at its optimum. The three lipids are reduced in dry skin and aged skin.
How will I know my barrier is compromised?
Is your skin more sensitive than normal. Prone to sudden (non hormonal breakouts).
Sensitive skin and those with eczema are characterised by a marked decrease in ceramide levels and the destroying enzymes present in concentrations times higher than in normal skin.
So although the first thought would be to increase your use of your moisturiser over
Moisturisation does not necessarily improve the barrier because excessive moisturisation actually reduces barrier function.
How can I prevent it?
Compromised barrier function is seen in a significant proportion of people as determined by measuring transepidermal water loss. Upwards of 30% of females complain of sensitive skin with some estimates of sensitivity rising to over 60% in diseases such as rosacea. This is often due to deficiency of total lipid content contributed to by their skincare regimens.
Causes?
* UVA, UVB and X radiation
* Humidity and temperature extremes
* Excessive hydration, especially hot water
* Excessive use of humectants
* Prolonged use of cold creams
* Certain skincare ingredients – sodium Laurent sulphate
* Physical and emotional stress
How can I help?
-Peptide infused ingredients
-Sunscreen with a high sun protection factor must be regularly applied, especially during times of increased oil production because the sunscreen breaks down with sun exposure and is diluted as it mixes with the acids in the skin barrier.
To summarise
The integrity of the stratum corneum(top layer of skin) is essential to regulate The skin cells functions of protection and hydration. A disrupted external skin barrier can lead to unwanted chronic inflammation.
